• KAPiFANØ 2020
    Dates of the kite meeting are 18-21 June, most kite flyers spend 7 to 10 days and will therefore arrive on the 13th to leave to following week end. We are working with Wolfgang on the program and content which should be available shortly
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    Looks like we are a go with Hamish, Carl, Yvon and my self.
    One loose end.
    Need to confirm the actual dates for the KAPiFAN0 event.
    - Pierre's post June 18-21 during the International Kite Flyers meeting but which should be extended between June 14 and 24...
    - Wolfgang FB - June 13-21
    - House rental ..... June 12-19.......
    The dates seem to be moving around a bit.
    Does anyone have a rough agenda with dates pulled together yet?
    WW
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    Carl
    It seems that Jim Powers (Wind Watcher) and Hamish Fenton are sharing a house and I think they still have room for 2. BTW this house is very well located next to the beach and supermarket.
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    Carl, that would be great if you could join.
    Check this link https://www.novasol.com/search?sort=bestMatch&adults=4&ne=55.430738512538476,8.392899539103496&sw=55.41748975157421,8.372428919901836&zoom=15&from=20200613&dateSpecified=1&to=20200620&daysVariation=3&count=24 there are still some houses for rent near the beach at decent rates.
    It is easier to rent a car from your arrival airport : Hambourg, Copenhagen or Billund
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    I've been chatting with Yvon Haché and looks like there might be a Canadian team heading to Fano.
    Does anyone have a couple of rooms spare in their accomodations for June 18 - 21?
    Or one room with 2 beds.
    Is best to rent our own vehicle?
    Carl
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    Dave,
    Got your two notes - thank you.
    Bottom line - looking to share a small home in FAN0 with a group of KAPers!
    I may do a side trip to Scotland on the back end of FAN0 on my return to the US.
    Time for some great KAPing!
    WW
    Winds of Dún Laoghaire
  • WHICH CABLE IS TO USE
    Hi Stefan
    Even the KAP Foil 3.0 requires a strong man to control it if the wind suddenly strengthens. Personally I would never fly a KAP Foil 8 for KAP - it might be useful at a Kite Festival when anchored firmly to the ground but not for KAP. 120kg line should be strong enough for any sort of KAP - I don't think any of us here use stronger line than that.
    Does your KAP equipment really weigh 3kg - that's a very heavy rig? Most of us have rigs that weigh 1Kg or less.
  • WHICH CABLE IS TO USE
    Hi everyone, I'm new and I write from Italy.
    My name is Stefano, I am a 49 year old boy, I am approaching aerial photography with kites, I first practiced diving with amateur shots and photos, but for a physical problem I have given up for now.
    The reason why I write is to ask you two questions about two sails in particular and their function, first the KAP foil 3.0 that I purchased as a pilot to lift 3D figures.
    While for the KAP foil 8.0 I will have to use it to take the equipment to take photos and videos as shown in the attached photo, all self-made.
    My question is if the KAP foil 3.0 needs a 120Kg cable its load if I wanted to bring its excursion to 200 or better 300 meters the cable load should I implement it or keep the same 120Kg, even for the KAP foil 8.0 which requires a cable with 240Kg load, a payload (equipment) equal has 3Kg. gram plus gram less.
    How should I behave?
  • 90 degree KAP
    PokyTom is correct - it's a pole fence to delineate the camping area. There is more along the trail to keep the tourists from wandering over to the edge. It wasn't there when they shot scenes from earlier movies like Rooster Cogburn. It's only 8 miles from my house and I have a yearly Oregon Parks Pass so I don't have to pay the $5 day use fee. This is a wider shot I took a couple years ago. image
  • KAPiFANØ 2020
    I just received the info that 6 to 8 KAPers from France will be joining KAPiFANØ 2020, combined with Kapers from the UK, Netherlands, Germany and USA, we should be 20 to 25 KAPers... nice crowd !
    If you have not yet rented your cottage, there are still a few for rent on Air BnB or novasol.com
  • Carp rods
    My pan-tilt PAP rig was more of a builder's challenge than a necessity. One big advantage was that I didn't have to crane my neck as much in order to know when to turn the pole a few degrees. I could just stand in place for a few minutes and than bring the pole down.
    This video is of my second version. I had a new camera and a desire to be able to mount the rig at the top of any section of my graphite pole. In fact, it can now be mounted anyplace I want (but I don't). To make the video, I jammed the pole section into a snow bank when my wife and I were out wandering around.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/pokytom/16180922938/in/photolist-7McSHN-7KY76d-6TN4Q9-qDRsDY-pZCnrc-qWgaeB-pZpxas-qWgkzX-oLCH6V-92pwKb-82Sc8m-7RP5E5-7RerWm-7ReZGQ-7LTJEa-7LV7FL-7LR9wn-6U7uWu-6U3ttZ-5zTq88-57aa2u
  • Carp rods
    I started with a 24 ft. aluminum painters pole, 3 sections with friction locking of the sections. It was plenty strong for my Canon Powershot. The main problems with the aluminum pole were 1) if I didn't tighten the friction clamps well, the rig would unexpectedly fold up at high speed and a heavy jolt to the camera and 2) it was so flexible that it was hard to stabilize and the wind had a great effect on it. But a painters pole is an option worth considering if for no other reason than its cost of about $40 U.S. I modified the threaded handle of a paint roller with a bolt that fit the tripod mounting hole of the camera. Very durable and never a crack.
    My second pole is a carbon carp pole of about 34 feet max. I never used the last section--too weak. My camera was mounted in a Picavet-style rig. My first version would automatically tilt. My second version both tilted and rotated; all I had to do was start in running, walk the pole up to vertical and stand there while it took the pictures. Later, I would stitch the pictures together for a nice ground-to-sky panorama, sometimes approaching 360 degrees. The carbon pole shows signs of stress so I have judiciously used electrical tape bands to fight the cracking. The carbon pole is much stiffer than the aluminum pole and handles better in the wind, but not perfectly. Keeping the pole stable "in flight" is important.
    My latest rig is made to fit any of the sections of the carbon pole so I can choose the height that I want.
    I haven't done any KAP or PAP in a couple of years. I keep thinking I will get back to it but all my gear needs overhauling.
    Tom Gautier
  • Fly a Camera from a Kite from a Boat with a Periscope
    I have opened up a whole new flying field, by doing KAP from a little boat on the water. I have an inflatable canoe that gets me into some small lakes and rivers, but it was too small to easily launch a kite from it. Its small size was convenient to transport in the trunk of a car.
    Then I bought an inflatable 3-man rubber dinghy boat, it is 4 feet wide and 9 feet long, and that is easy to haul and has enough space to assemble an 8-foot delta conyne kite and get it up into the wind. This boat is not big enough to stand up in comfortably, so I planned to do everything from a sitting position. To help with the kite string, I have a reel mounted to a mast, and a pulley at the the top at 4 feet above the water. And I added a sliding periscope pipe, it is a temporary rising topgallant mast, so I can raise the kite string even higher, to 7 feet above the water, and then I wait for a breeze to pull the kite into a flying position. I can't do the usual things that I might do on land, like running or long lining.
    I work on rivers and small lakes, too small and shallow for regular metal boats or pontoon boats. The boat landings might be just a trail alongside the stream bank. The trees on shore are 50 feet high and block a lot of the wind. Often, I have to watch the weather forecast and direction of the wind and how it lines up on a map. I take advantage of a wind having 'fetch' and coming down to water level as it comes through the valley between the trees. And then I have to get the kite flying so it ends up 6 times higher than the trees, where the wind is steady and predictable.
    In one place, the river was 30 feet wide and surrounded by marsh grass that was 5 feet tall. My method holds the kite at 7 feet, just high enough to catch a little gust that came by after waiting 10 minutes. Sometimes I have to wait longer to catch a breeze near water level, or move the boat while the kite is just hanging from the highest pulley, not flying, and search for some wind. The breeze might swirl and threaten to make the kite and bridle string turn and wrap around the mast. This is not the place to launch a Rokkaku with a long 4 string bridle.
    My mast is just PVC plastic pipe that needs support at the top, so I have two guy lines or running backstays from the boat to the
    top of the mast. And I have anchor rope underfoot in the bottom of the boat, and all that makes me a sailor to keep the lines all
    ship-shape.
    The sliding periscope gains some height, 7 feet above the boat, and keeps the kite dry during the launch. I hang it high, and then wait for a puff of wind to carry it away. Sometimes the kite sails away 80 feet horizontally but doesn't gain enough height to really fly nor even keep the string from sagging into the water. It may be just barely flying in ground effect at 7 feet above the water, and then I have to quickly reel it back. The reel is large enough in diameter that it can add 2 mph to the kite speed, which helps keep the string and kite above the water. And if the string is still on the highest pulley, that also helps to pull the kite up away from the water.
    I have had the kite string fall into the water many times during a kite launch, it is not thrilling and all I can do is retrieve it and hope the kite is still flying so the string can get back up in the air and become dry during the flight. Otherwise, I reel it wet and later unwind it in my backyard to dry it and reel it up properly.
    After I find a windy area for a good launch and then get the kite up to altitude, I usually have to move the boat to position the line and camera so I get closer to the subject. Sometimes I travel half a mile, and hopefully the wind and kite move my little boat into position. It's like a sailboat; this small kite can pull 6 pounds and move the boat upstream against the current. Or cross-wise to it and threaten to pull my string to the trees. Then I drop an anchor to hold me there. I have also prepared a second anchor for the other end of the boat, to keep control of the boat because the current and wind might be making the boat drift and turn every minute, which changes the angle of the kite string to the reel and mast. I can pivot the mast and reel that is attached to it, so I keep the pulleys and reel lined up with the kite string, and I can reel with one hand, but why fight the boat turning as well.
    I use a picavet to attach the camera to the string. I like the quality of the pictures from a picavet, as compared to a pendulum. A
    pendulum would be easier to attach to the line in the limited space that I am working from, and considering that I do it from a sitting position. I like using the mast pulleys to hold the string and picavet a few extra feet above the water when I launch and retrieve the camera.
    I use my usual cameras, but they are not waterproof models. Waterproof models can add weight, or have less choice of zoom
    settings.
    The mast pulleys help control the line when it is time to retrieve the kite. By this time, I have already removed the picavet from the line. If the wind is poor at water level, I will place the line on the pulley that is 4 feet above the water. If the wind is good and the kite stays flying safely down to me, then I don't need to go on the highest pulley, and I just reel it in and catch the kite by the string when it is close. It helps if I can maneuver the boat to a good wind area to help keep the kite flying right to me. I don't like lulls in the wind and then the kite overflys and has to turn back to me. My reel might be fast, but not fast enough to keep a kite flying in no wind.
    Splashing a kite in the water is not encouraging. It takes ten minutes to dry out and lose the weight of the water before I can try
    another launch. If it comes down over 30 feet away from the boat, it might sink. I find that kites float about a minute and then slowly sink. And they like to turn upside down as they sink. Kites like to 'fly' under water, and they like to do it upside down and 'fly' to the bottom, making it harder to pull them in.. It might snag on rocks and that makes the work difficult. I have watched my kite on the bottom of Lake Superior, bouncing along and around the boulders, 20 feet underwater. I was flying it from shore, so I didn't have the advantage of parking a boat directly above it to pull it straight up. But even in the river from a boat in a current, it is work to get a kite out of the water.
    I tied an empty water bottle inside my delta conyne kite in a place that is out of the air flow. That's enough flotation to keep the kite on the surface if there's a splash down. It is a life preserver flotation device. I have a pint water bottle that is very light weight. Not a thick walled soda pop bottle. To help the bottle keep its shape and at full volume, I put it in the freezer at -10F, with the cap off. After it is cold, I screw the cap on while it is in the bottom of the freezer, to trap cold air in it. When it warms up, the air is pressurized enough that the bottle holds it full size and shape; even if I accidentally squash it; it instantly pops and crackles back to its full size.
    My boat and kite mast are like my other photography projects, where I combine ordinary things in extraordinary ways. This method with a mast and periscope might also be useful from a wheelchair, where you might have to do everything from a seated position.
    Here's a link to my trainweb page with pictures of this boat and reel and mast with a periscope:
    http://trainweb.org/brucerail10/w190810boat/a190810.html
    Fly a Camera from a Kite from a Boat with a Periscope
  • Carp rods
    I'll make it easy on you- look up " Mr. Longarm Angle Adaptor ". It goes on the end of a pole and you can surely
    figure out how to implement a 1/4-20 bolt on the small, " tilt-adjustable " piece.
    It is a US company that makes all sort of pole attachments.
    You then would not need a new ball head.
  • Carp rods
    Expensive? It's only a $12 clamp!
    I'm now considering an aluminium pole. It does have a thread on the top to accept accessories but unfortunately, the thread itself is plastic.
  • Carp rods
    Heavy and expensive.
    If your pole has a thread to receive a paint roller, you can make or buy an adapter. Pole Pixie was one name, also expensive
    and heavy...
    If you cut the handle, with the 5/8 female thread, from a paint roller, you can figure out a way to affix a 1/4-20
    bolt which will thread in to your camera base. You will probably need something like a wing nut, to lock the base of the
    camera from turning round the bolt.
  • Carp rods
    Ive been looking around for clamps to attach my camera to the pole and I have been considering this one:

    It is very strong and versatile. Though the weight is 200 grams. Wonder if I could still use it with the 26mm section of the pole. Could be a bit risky.
  • Carp rods
    Dave, ah yes good sense. That walking technique is certainly a good approach.
    I am considering the aluminium pole that extends to 10 meters. It looks really well made and sturdy and it's likely that it will support the weight of my M4/3 camera and 12mm lens near the top. The only thing that puts me off is the price! It's more than double the cost of the fiberglass pole. I would be planning to use it partly for hobby use but also for paid jobs as well - hopefully photographing clients' properties and businesses. There does seem to be some demand for aerial photographs of such places but it's hard to say how much demand there really is. Just not sure if I can justify the cost of the aluminium pole or not - whether I can get enough paying jobs out of it or not.
    Though I admit the situation is not as extreme as those companies who use the super long poles designed specifically for aerial photography - the ones that extend to 15 meters and in some cases 20 meters (which attach to a trailer hitch on a car.) They cost thousands and I wonder if they actually make that money back eventually.
  • Carp rods
    Actually, Dave, when you use your 500 gram PAP rig on the 20mm diameter section of your carbon-fibre pole, do you raise that one from a horizontal position as well? If that's the case, then that's a pretty good test of strength since it's my assumption that there's more strain on the pole from the payload when it's horizontal. Also extra confirmation that the 26mm section of my future pole would likely be quite safe for my camera (considering that it will remain vertical throughout the operation.)
  • Carp rods
    Paul, like I mentioned before, I have lofted a similar weight camera from the ground with a 7 meter + pole a few years ago. It was hard! Though with this 12 meter Spiderbeam pole, I will be extending and retracting it vertically with the camera attached. I think the days of raising a pole from a horizontal position are well behind me. Too many disadvantages with that method. That's why Ive been so set on getting a pole that allows me to complete the whole operation vertically.
    Dave, Ive watched your video before. That's a good technique - walking towards the pole like that. And yes, you pointed out another disadvantage that I experienced a number of times with my previous pole - finding a large enough area to lay it out prior to raising it. From here on in, it's all vertical for me.

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