Line Work

edited December 2012 in Lessons Learned
Over the last 12 months or so I have been taking steps to strengthen and simplify the kite line attachment point.

Changes made (simple):

- Added sleeves to end of kite line at the attachment point (I fly mostly light weight line and need more protection at the weak points (knots, abrasion points)).

- Switched to loop end with Larks Head attachment to the kite (with pig tail line attached to kite). Moved away from the metal swivel snap attachment - more for strength, reliability and lower weight.

- Added Velcro to secure line to Stratospool reel.

I am certain many KAPers use one or more of the ideas above.

See photo below:

WW

Line Work

Comments

  • Thank you for sharing this, WW

    My couple cents.
    knots are bad for the line. If you perform test breaking the line with knots you will see that it's most probably will break at the knot.

    Here is the approach I use with braided dyneema line (0.75mm) :

    I bought a sleeving kit on ebay, 3 bucks or so.

    image

    Put a sleeve on the line end, then folded and sewed about 3/4th of the full length of the sleeve with thin needle and regular thin line.

    image

    It is better to do manually because you have to be sure that needle goes through the line itself, not just a sleeve. You will feel it in the process since the needle will be going much harder through the kite line rather than sleeve material only.

    Here is how I attach it to the kite (sled):

    image

    This way the kite line won't have any knots on it and will stand much stronger pull. You will also have a convenient loop at the end of the kite line.

    I'm pretty sure you can use the same approach for the dacron lines to increase their breaking limits.
  • With climax dacron lines you can avoid the knot by splicing since the line is hollow. See the set of photos here
  • SueSue
    edited December 2012
    If you use a double double overhand knot, the line strength is something like 80 per cent of the line strength. (Don't quote me on it.) Anyway, it's stronger than the ordinary double overhand knot.
    You tie it like this
    http://teacheratsea.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/4double-overhand-loop.jpg
    There's a great work about knot strength and why they fail here http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/8_strength.pdf It seems that the tighter the curve in the knot, the more likely it is to fail so those that roll rather than bend are better.

    Fly High

    Sue
  • Sue, that knot pdf link didn't work but it's very good so here it is http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/8_strength.pdf
  • This is cool. Coming from a rock climbing background, I've been using the double figure 8 (a Flemish Bend made into a loop). It's nice to see that my gut feeling that it's better than a double overhand is supported.
    I thought it was interesting that the author says it applies only to natural fibers and then shows knots made of nylon.

  • Dave, I just replaced my line's knots with splices. COOL STUFF! It took practically no time at all, and makes for a very clean line. I'm finally on vacation (YAAAAY!) so I hope to take my stuff out in the afternoon and give it a go.

    Tom
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