Community projects with KAP

245

Comments

  • edited February 2013
    As posted in the other thread:
    http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap/discuss/index.php?p=/discussion/3594/hd-keychain-cam#Item_52
    for a simple technique, HD 808#16D coat hanger cam works fine!
    image
    Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92XZHEX8rPg&feature=youtu.be (not stabilised, wysiwyg)
    Remember to click on the YouTube cogwheel icon to view in HD
  • edited February 2013
    John,

    HD808 won't cut it for what I want to do but its clearly a very good starter camera for KAP without tears.

    Have emailed kitesoc UK...
  • edited February 2013
    Yes, not ideal for mapping (but better than Google!) and perfectly OK for first sweep archaeological prospection, giving kids an easy method to do real archaeological investigations.

  • edited February 2013
    image
    First stage build of a Harbord SP rig. I have to figure out how to fix the rubberband to the spindle, suspension and how to cope with the Ixus offset tripod screw.
  • edited February 2013
    Test build of Simon's rig is progressing:

    http://billboyheritagesurvey.wordpress.com/2013/02/03/harbord-sp-rig-build-1/

    Looks like this:
    image
  • edited February 2013
    Here is the first of the mechanical timers:
    image
    a 60 minute, stainless steel one and weighs 153g.

    If the next one to arrive has a more practical time period (It is an egg timer), and is not too heavy, I will mount it on a picavet cross, with frame and camera, to test if it rotates OK under tension.

    Added note:
    Just found the egg timer already in use:
    image
    http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.howtogeek.com/geekers/up/sshot4e72214ef367a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.howtogeek.com/95576/hack-an-ikea-kitchen-timer-for-cheap-panning-time-lapse-photography/&h=376&w=650&sz=55&tbnid=D4MmP0wuMANUkM:&tbnh=69&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__LRrOia25RW9KNNvFG42yGyWXLAM=&docid=sYSXQtLVKv7f7M&sa=X&ei=ft4PUY31FuSY0QXbw4CoAw&ved=0CFkQ9QEwBA&dur=406
  • John,
    If you strip these down they could be very handy, let us know how you get on: I'm having a right lark getting the Silly Putty to work!

    B
  • Here's one I prepared earlier, never thought of using it for KAP, great for panning time-lapse however.
    http://apnewton.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/gopro-panning-time-lapse-kitchen-timer.html
  • Hi Andrew,
    I was rather hoping that it rotated in a shorter time.
    This rather limits its use for KAP....the search is back on...there should be some 5min ones!
    I like the clean lines of the timer.
  • Simon-

    Would you share the trick for bending aluminum without cracking? I believe that like brass it "work-hardens" , gets brittle
    when bent. Not sure I know what you have in mind, but any trick, especially a new trick, is a good trick.

    Thanks,
    Paul
  • The trick for bending (most grades of) aluminium without breaking is in heating/annealing it first. Very gently, it doesn't need to glow bright red. That'll make it nicely soft and pliable.
  • Paul, Erick,
    I have never had to do this but I'm told that if you cover the heated area with soap and stop the heat when the soap turns brown/black the temp is right for the bend. Some grades of aluminium cold bend ok some do not. There is a 'bench rule' which says if it dosn't ring when you drop it on the floor it will cold bend but if it rings then reach for the soap and blowtorch.
  • Bill, from your pictures you used a different approach to the silly putty bearing to that which I used in the videos so I can't advise you there, though I'm not surprised you are having problems, the "sleeve method" used in Cris' silly putty timer is not the same or appropriate to the continuous required rotation of the AutoKAP rig. Suggest you use a flat bar/ strip running through the bearing. It allows you to pack more putty in.

    Paul, as for bending ally strip, I've never needed to anneal. The secret for me has been to support the work tightly in a vice about 1/16" from the bend point and make the bend in one swift move. Don't pause even for a second. This doesn't give the metal a chance to work harden. If you stop and restart, it will almost certainly crack.
    Simon
  • edited February 2013
    Simon,

    Sounds like you smack and bend the ally before it knows what’s happening. Kind of like
    the Country -Western song by Rodney Atkins, ( which while a pretty catchy tune is really not much of either...) something about if you’re going through hell, don’t stop, get out before the devil even knows you’re there....

    Anybody tried vise jaws like these: http://www.micromark.com/deluxe-bending-die-set-4-inch,8226.html ?

    Paul
  • edited February 2013
    Bill - following on from Simon's post, there's a detailed description of how to make a silly putty timer (actually a dethermaliser for model gliders) here and here. The good thing about the design is that it doesn't leak. It may need some scaling up to last long enough for KAP - I think as described it runs out in a few minutes.
  • edited February 2013
    Great stuff David, I'm having trouble with my 1st try: it runs far to quick. I have used a rod section which I'm slowly fiilng down to flat..your 1st link reveals the importance of the 'paddle' in getting slow movement.

    image

    Simon, see above: mods are afoot!

    B
  • Hi Bill
    I see that you'd like a 50ft eel and would like it made in Britain. I have a friend,Alan Poxon, http://www.alanpoxon.webs.com/ who is a kite maker and I'm sure that he would love to make one for you. He lives in Yorkshire and is also a wannabe KAPer. He is also in a kite display team (sorry Alan I can't remember what it's called)
    I'm sure he'd be your man

    Fly High

    Sue
  • Thanks Sue, I know Gomberg are the tops for this sort of thing but I really think we should keep it local if we can!

    email sent.

    Silly putty rig now turning nicley fom 8mins at about 5.5 rpm...



    B
  • There you go,
    Simon
  • edited February 2013
    I think I have a good working example of Simons rig now:

    http://billboyheritagesurvey.wordpress.com/2013/02/07/harbord-sp-rig-build-2/

    which includes a short video of the motion, I can't figure out how to post the vid here I'm afraid!

    image

    Now..to the skies!

    B


  • edited February 2013
    ...she works!

    image

    image


    2 shots from a block of 128 images ( I forgot to charge the camera battery..duh!) of a fairly dull subject.

    I used a Colours in Motion 1.6m Rok to lift it, which did pretty well in a 9- 12mph variable wind.




  • These assembly photos of the silly putty rig are great! thanks for sharing your process.
  • edited February 2013
    What was your percentage sharpness like Bill? I only fly these rigs in light winds on fairly slack lines, when I do I get tons of sharp shots. In stronger winds or turbulence the light rig thrashes around, but still delivers about 20 percent which is fine if you have around 100 shots in a ten minute flight. It's all compromise. Light rig, no real damping/ picavet, need light conditions.

    Simon
  • edited February 2013
    Looks like I got the full runtime 15mins between 1st and last shot. The results were remarkable (well to me anyway!): of 128 shots only 53 were complete wasters ;-). I think thats that's a 33% reject rate. There were just enough shots to get a (wobbly) 360 pano if you were minded: and that's all I need.

    On my side was bright sunlight which pushed the shutter speed up to 1/500th on auto. The Ixus 7 has no image stabilization.

    Wind speed was pretty variable 9 to 12mph (I had to haul line in lull to keep it aloft) and the kite was a 'mini' 1.6m rok' which is fairly twitchy but the pull was never excessive so I can get a 12 year old to fly it.

    I'm impressed by the whole thing really: you can do a lot with a little if you put your mind to it and the help I have had on the forum has been terrific!

    My only worry now (apart from the ever present weather anxiety) is leakage how can I store the rig without making an awful mess? Silly putty cleans up ok but I'd like to keep it 'flight ready'.
  • Wrap a bit of cling film round the bearing Bill. In truth I never bother as I just don't find losses really an issue. Just tamp the putty in with a matchstick after each flight
  • edited February 2013
    I'm not sure if this works...



    ...but this shows the (silly) motion achieved.

  • edited February 2013
    15 minute rotation, clockwork Simplex:
    image
    Not field tested. I will report back if it works OK.
    It works fine indoors.

    I had to replace the bolts with longer ones and add three washers between the frame and cross (ie the top of the motor housing).
    As with the camera, the mounting is asymmetric using existing holes in this off-the-shelf frame........a thoughtful design ;o)
    The knob is glued in place along with the cross. The hole in the cross had to be made larger.

    The weight of the full rig including camera is 328g.
    Total cost including camera ~£90

    Motor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130364162243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  • edited February 2013
    Excellent....I like it....it should be possible to get the weight down with a bit of home bent ally me thinks: can't wait to see it work!

    2 questions:

    Am I right in thinking it's 1 rev in 15mins?

    and ...does it 'ping' when it's done?
  • edited February 2013
    3/4 of a rotation in 15min.
    It does not do a full rotation and does not ping, as it is not an audible timer, but an electrical switch.
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